3D modeling in jewelry
3D modeling facilitates the work of creation of jewels, especially those with complex forms or patterns. This technique is combined with the wax modeling to optimize the rendering and reduce the alteration at the finish. The 3D modeling helps to make the mold in wax in which the metal will take shape.
The model is first drawn on paper. It is colored according to the stones that will be put on it. The drawing is then schematized on a computer with specific 3D software. The 3D modeling gives the possibility to see the jewel through all angles and it can be corrected as needed. When the jeweler is satisfied by the 3D drawing, it is transmitted to a 3D printer that will realize a mold in wax.
The use of wax in jewelry
Jewelers use a specific type of wax to give the form they want to the objects they create. This technique was discovered by Egyptian jewelers 4000 years ago and it was used for making bronze jewels. They later reproduce the method for creating golden and silver objects. Nowadays, the use of wax in jewelry is combined with 3D modeling and offers the best results for creating models with very complex forms.
This process is the best one for making unique models. It allows many possibilities of forms. Furthermore, the finish is impeccable with very smooth surface, inside and outside. All details in the forms the patterns are perfectly reproduced. The final product barely needs manual alteration. All Maison Divinescence creations are designed with wax and 3D modeling so we can easily realize custom-made jewels. You just have to send us the model you want, or choose one of ours in our catalog, and specify the size.
Gem-setting is the step following melting, preparation and remediation, a major step of jewelry making. Thus, once the precious stones have been selected, the artisan can set them into a jewelry item. The methods may vary depending on the model, shape and size of the stone.
This step requires the use of appropriate tools: a thumper (a tiny electric jackhammer), chisels and very small stalls.
The different types of gem-setting
There are several techniques for setting, but regardless of the option chosen, the aim is to reveal the beauty of the gemstone and the jewel.
- The claw setting: one of the most common techniques in jewelry. Few metal claws or prongs are used to securely hold the stone. The method is suitable for most stones, however, it has the disadvantage of fragility. Indeed, as time goes by or in case of shocks, the stone can be dislodged.
- The bezel setting: the bezel setting is used for large stones. These are surrounded by metal, which adequately protects them. However, since the metal does not recover its upper part, the gemstone can efficiently capture light.
- The pave setting: it’s suitable for small sized stones and round shapes; it’s about fixing the stones onto a metal strip. These are maintained in small holes that have been drilled out in the metal. Grains and visible threads between the stones can be considered as decorative elements.
- The channel setting: often used to set small diamonds and precious stones of similar size, this type of setting enhances the brilliance of the gems. Indeed, held between one or two parallel metal tracks, they completely cover the surface of the gem.
- The bar setting: Variation in channel setting, this technique consists in inserting the stones side-by-side in a thin metal row. The bar setting is ideal to properly maintain the gems.
- The S setting: with this setting method, the stone will be surrounded by a gold girdle. It makes the gem appear larger and more glittering.
Polishing is about removing the oxidization (tarnish) from the jewel until a smooth, dazzling aspect is obtained. This process requires the use of various tools and machines such as sandpaper, brushes and rollers saturated with polishing pastes, buffer discs and linen and cotton yarns. Therefore, it is a finishing touch, which has to be handled by an artisan renowned for his experience and know-how.
To polish all the surfaces of the jewel, it is possible to use several techniques. It should first be sanded inside and outside with a blade to remove roughness and unify the surface. Then, the piece should be immersed in various baths: ultrasound treatment, electrolytic bath, then a clear water rinse. To end, the jewel will be placed under high pressure steam. This will remove dirt, grease or dust deeply incrusted in the jewel. After this step, the polisher may, depending on the model created by the designer, give it a shimmering look or a sandblasted finish.
During polishing, very close attention is paid to the gem because the manipulations and the various chemical components contained in the successive baths containing could alter it, especially if it is a pearl or an emerald, that are considered too delicate.
This quality craftsmanship requires a lot of dexterity and patience. The artisan must also check the result with a magnifying glass at each step.
On another hand, white gold and silver should be treated with a rhodium bath to protect the jewel from the effects of sulfide in the air. This is the way to avoid darkening as time goes by. With its color close to silver, rhodium is a metal that does not oxidize. This is the reason why jewelers use it to protect white gold and silver jewelry.
Rhodium bath or rhodium is a complex technique of depositing a new fine layer of metal by electrolysis on the surface of the white gold. Further this process, the jewel becomes whiter and more sparkling, with a unique shine and brilliance.
Engraving your jewels
Engraving words or images on a jewel will give it a personal touch and make it unique, for you but for the one you will give it too. For your marriage, you can engrave your names or the date on the rings for eternity. They will be a beautiful souvenir of your promises and your wedding day. Maison Divinescence suggests you manual engraving or laser engraving.
Laser engraving is the best technique to have sharp contours and long lasting results. It can be used to draw complicated forms and the marking operation is quite quick. The patterns are edited with specific software on a computer, and then they are transmitted to a marking machine. The machine will then engrave the words or images on the inside or the outside of the ring.
Manual engraving needs more time but also offers perfect results if done by a professional. The marking can be made with handled miniature chisels made of hardened steel. It is used for manual marking when the patterns are not very difficult to realize. For more complex patterns, jewelers use electric tools such as electric pen with diamond or hardened steel head. This technique is best for long lasting engraving and is more precise.
The stamp of a jewel made in noble metal as gold, silver or platinum is the guarantee of the purity of the metal. It is also considered as the metal ID card.
The stamping is made with a specific little hammer by the jeweler. It is the last phase of the jewel manufacturing. It must therefore be done before engraving the piece. For golden jewels, according to the level of purity, there are specific stamps: 999, 750, 585, 375…
All jewels created by Maison Divinescence are stamped for insuring quality and authenticity of the gold, the silver or the platinum used to make them. Golden jewels are stamped 750 (18k) minimum.